What Makes Catalunya Tick

Catalunya is such a bizarre place. So dynamic, innovative, the economic engine of Spain, the only place where Spain really had an industrial revolution. And yet so clinging to its traditions.  There were several things in my post about the cal?otada that I didn’t explain or translate. That was deliberate:  I’m going to be blogging about them as the weeks go by - those things that make Catalunya tick. The barretina, for example.

That red thing men (and now women) wear on their heads, one of the enduring symbols of Catalunya. It's a hat, a cap, a folklore cloth thing that you roll up, no, not a turban... after nearly 35 years here, I realise I have no idea precisely what the barretina is. But am astounded to find it has its own website, brought to you by the Cofraria Barretinaire: the Barretina Brotherhood. The Barretina Brothers comes to mind as a couple of obscure middle-aged, barretina-wearing men who suddenly hit number one with an irresistibly catchy sardana groove (soon to be a major biopic, another blockbuster for the Catalan cinema). In fact the history of the barretina at the site makes gripping reading. It's in Catalan, but there are lots of photos of politicians, TV presenters, Bar?a president Joan Laporta (of course!) and the Sant Cugat Rugby Club wearing the thing. And in Barretines pel M?n (Barretines across the world) we see it in Iceland, Athens, Vienna, Senegal, India, Bangkok... and a barretina-ed family of four across the water from Sydney Opera House. Oh, and there's even a barretina-ed kangaroo. For the real lowdown, you have to go to Viquip?dia (Catalan Wikipedia), where you see that the barretina is a sort of red woollen bag which you put on your head and roll up at a rakish angle. And that it was popularised by Salvador Dal?. You also see, oh my god, that there are tons of different kinds, but we won't go down that road right now. Better to head back to the botiga (shop) at the Cofraria site where you can buy your very own barretina (and t-shirt) and contribute to the cause: the Make the Barretina Catalunya's National Symbol Campaign. Valerie Collins is co-author, with Theresa O?Shea, of In The Garlic: Your Informative, Fun Guide to Spain.